Day 11 – Thursday

Today we continued our journey by car to the famous Waitomo Caves, a highlight on many New Zealand itineraries. Originally, we had planned to split up for the day: Viator and the kids had booked the legendary Black Abyss – Black Water Rafting Tour, while Pooh opted for the more tranquil boat ride through the glowworm caves. Unfortunately, due to recent heavy rainfall, the Black Abyss tour was cancelled for safety reasons. It was a disappointment, but safety always comes first — and we still had a wonderful day.

Discovering Aranui Cave

We began with a guided tour of the Aranui Cave, a hidden gem nestled in the lush rainforest of the Ruakuri Scenic Reserve. To reach the entrance, we walked through the misty forest — a magical experience in itself even while it was raining. Photography is allowed in this area, so we captured some beautiful shots of the cave’s intricate limestone formations.

The cave was discovered in 1910 by Ruruku Aranui, a young Māori man who stumbled upon it while chasing wild pigs. His dog led him to a small hole in the hillside, and inside he found a chamber that extended deep into the earth. The cave was officially opened to the public in 1911 and named in his honor

Unlike the glowworm caves, Aranui Cave is dry and does not contain an underground river. Instead, it’s celebrated for its richly decorated ceilings and delicate stalactites and stalagmites — a true showcase of nature’s artistry.

The Glowworm Grotto and Māori Heritage

After a short lunch break, we joined a guided group tour into the Waitomo Glowworm Cave. Access is only permitted with a guide.

The cave was first explored in 1887 by Chief Tane Tinorau and English surveyor Fred Mace. Using a raft made of flax stems and candles for light, they ventured into the cave and discovered the now-famous Glowworm Grotto, where thousands of tiny lights shimmered above them like stars. By 1889, Chief Tane and his wife Huti began guiding tourists through the cave, and today many of the staff are their descendants.

The Waitomo Caves are not only geological marvels — they are also deeply sacred to the Māori people, who have lived in and around this region for centuries. The name Waitomo itself comes from the Māori words wai (water) and tomo (hole or entrance), reflecting the caves’ natural features and their cultural resonance. Inside the cave, photography is strictly prohibited — both to protect the glowworms and out of respect for Māori cultural traditions.

In a landmark decision, the New Zealand government returned the land to the descendants of Chief Tane Tinorau in 1989, recognizing the cultural and historical importance of the site.

Music Beneath the Earth

One of the most surprising facts about the Waitomo Glowworm Caves is that they’re not only a natural wonder, but also an occasional venue for music and celebration. The Cathedral Chamber, with its soaring 18-meter-high ceiling and exceptional acoustics, has hosted a handful of exclusive performances over the years.

Renowned artists such as Dame Kiri Te Kanawa, one of New Zealand’s most celebrated opera singers, have performed here, taking advantage of the cave’s natural echo and ambiance. Even Katy Perry is rumored to have sung in the chamber during a private visit — a testament to the cave’s unique allure.

While concerts in the caves are rare and not part of regular programming, the space is sometimes used for weddings, cultural ceremonies, and musical events. These occasions are deeply respectful of the cave’s Māori heritage, and photography is still strictly prohibited to preserve both the glowworms and the spiritual atmosphere.

Listening to our guide sing in the Cathedral was a deeply moving experience — his voice resonated through the chamber like it was made for music. It’s easy to see why this place has inspired artists and audiences alike.

A Magical Boat Ride

To conclude the tour, we boarded a small rowing boat and drifted silently into the darkness. Above us, millions of glowworms lit up the cave ceiling like a galaxy.

These tiny creatures — known scientifically as Arachnocampa luminosa — are not actually worms at all, but the larval stage of a fungus gnat found only in New Zealand. And yet, they transform the cave ceilings into glowing galaxies that leave visitors speechless. The glow is more than just enchanting — it’s a hunting tool. Insects flying through the dark are drawn to the light, mistaking it for moonlight or reflections on water. Suspended from the cave ceiling, each glowworm spins dozens of sticky silk threads, like vertical spider webs. These threads are coated in mucus and act as traps. When an insect gets caught, the glowworm senses the vibrations, reels in the thread, and consumes its prey.

Life in the Shadows

Glowworms spend most of their lives — up to a year — in this glowing larval stage. After enough feeding, they pupate and emerge as adult gnats. But their adult life is short and bittersweet: they live only a few days, just long enough to mate and lay eggs before dying. Most of their existence is spent glowing, hunting, and surviving in the dark.

It was a truly magical and humbling experience.

Onward to Hamilton

After this wonderfull experiance, we drove a bit further to Hamilton, where we plan to visit the famous gardens tomorrow. Tonigt we grabed some Pizza and ate in our motel room.