Day 19 — From Nouakchott to Saint-Louis: A Long Road, a Long Border, and Our First Night in Senegal

Early Start Toward the Senegal Border

Today began a little earlier than usual. All rally teams were asked to meet at 9:00 a.m. at a location just outside Nouakchott to ensure we would have enough time for the long drive south — and especially for the border crossing into Senegal, which is known to be unpredictable and time‑consuming.

After breakfast we packed the car, left the hotel, and arrived at the meeting point shortly before nine. Once all vehicles had gathered, the convoy set off toward the border.

Two hands pouring water from a clear plastic bottle into a green garbage bin beside a red service van with bold white lettering, outdoors on a sunny day

Through the Sahel Toward the South

The route led us through the Sahel zone, an environment that feels neither desert nor green, but something in between. To the left and right: sand patches, scattered dunes, dry shrubs, and the occasional cluster of acacia‑like bushes.
Every now and then we passed small villages, extremely poor settlements with simple huts, tents, or makeshift shelters. Children ran toward the road as we passed, waving energetically — sometimes just for fun, sometimes in hopes of a small gift.

Outside the villages there were no paved roads at all — just wide sand tracks stretching into the horizon.

Into the National Park and Across the Dam

The actual border crossing lies inside the Diawling national park. To reach it, we had to drive across a 40‑kilometre dam, nothing more than a long, uneven sand piste covered in holes and ruts. We moved at almost walking speed for two full hours, bouncing continuously through the dips and bumps.

Here our Land Rover’s air suspension and low‑range gearbox paid off, allowing us to keep a steady pace even on difficult ground. Still, everyone had to weave around large holes or temporarily drive off the dam and back onto it — an exhausting but memorable track.

The landscape changed dramatically as we approached the Senegal River. Suddenly, the dry Sahel gave way to greener vegetation, and the first animals appeared:

Warthogs darting off into the bushes
A crocodile sunning itself near the water (too quick to photograph)
Larger flocks of pelicans circling overhead

Nature signalled clearly: Senegal was close.

Red triangular road sign showing cattle silhouettes on a tall post in a arid desert landscape under a clear blue sky, with various stickers on the sign.

Dusty off-road journey viewed from a vehicle interior on a sandy dirt road, distant SUV and desert shrubs under a clear sky, with a dashboard compass in the foreground.

Exiting Mauritania — Dust, Chaos, and Patience

At the Mauritanian border checkpoint, the usual organised chaos awaited us. Dusty huts, improvised offices, crowds of people, and long lines of trucks. Every rally vehicle had to be checked again:

registration verified
passports stamped
exit permissions logged

A temporary moment of panic arose when officials thought one passport was missing — but after some confusion, it turned out to be a false alarm.

The entire exit process took about two and a half hours. Much of it was waiting, chatting with other rally teams, and watching the organised disorder of the border unfold. In its own way, the time passed surprisingly fast.

Smiling Pooh in a light blue shirt and beige hat takes a selfie beside a red stickered rally car, with a row of vans under a bright blue sky and a visible 'Team Marty' label

A group of people stand outside a bright blue wooden building with an Arabic sign, on a dusty ground, shadows casting across the scene and casual travel attire visible

Entering Senegal — A Different World

We crossed the bridge over the Senegal River, and immediately the atmosphere shifted. The Senegalese side was still African, still simple — but noticeably better organised. More structure, more staff, fewer delays.

Seeing the arrival of 60 vehicles at once, the officials immediately opened a second passport counter, which made an enormous difference. Each participant had fingerprints taken, passports were stamped, and within one hour, the entire rally had officially entered Senegal.

We were welcomed by two representatives of the Gambian NGO, who had driven north to meet us. They form our customs escort, ensuring that our vehicles — too old to legally be imported into Senegal — safely transit through the country and exit again with the rally.

Golden-hour sunset casts warm light over a group of travelers gathered outside a white building, with a parked SUV and a white van nearby, creating a lively roadside scene.

Into Saint-Louis — In the Dark

By now, the sun had set, and darkness fell quickly. The remaining 30 kilometres to Saint‑Louis were challenging:

goats standing on the road
motorbikes and cars without headlights
sudden lane changes from traffic ahead
cows digging through large garbage containers

It was chaotic, unpredictable, and required full concentration.

Arrival on the Island of the Fishermen

Saint‑Louis consists of three parts:

the mainland
the historic island (UNESCO heritage)
the Fishermen’s Island, where we stayed

Crossing two bridges, we reached the Fishermen’s Island without issues and found our accommodation — small bungalows, simple but clean, and exactly what we needed after such a demanding day.

After more than 12 hours on the road and at checkpoints, we were completely exhausted.
A cold-to-warm shower transition later, a quick dinner at the hotel, and we were ready for bed.

Cozy bedroom with a curved thatched ceiling, a wooden bed dressed in blue bedding and colorful pillows, a rustic lamp, small table and chairs create a warm, inviting atmosphere.

Blue-toned illustrated map of a coastal city Saint Louis framed in wood with a gold edge, hung on a light wall beneath a woven barbed-wire display.

Looking Ahead

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the old town of Saint‑Louis before continuing our journey toward The Gambia.

A long day behind us — a new country ahead.

Drive with us through Sain Louise by night: