Quiet Rest Day in Nouakchott: Fishermen and Markets

Day 18 — A Quiet Rest Day in Nouakchott: Fishermen, Markets, and an Unexpected EU Encounter

A Slow Start After the Desert Days

After the demanding days in the Sahara, today was officially a rally rest day — and we truly needed it. For the first time in a while, we allowed ourselves to sleep in a little longer, then headed down to breakfast at a small room overlooking the ocean. Simple food, nothing fancy — but exactly right for a slow morning.

Red juice dispenser with a gold base sits on a beige table beside stacked clear plastic cups and bottled water in a bright dining area.

A person in a beige jacket sits at a light table with black square plates holding croissants, bread, yogurt and foil packets, plus a pink plaid cup, a juice cup, utensils and wrappers scattered around.

Today also marked the beginning of our malaria prophylaxis routine, which we will now take daily. A small detail, but part of the new rhythm as we continue south.

Along the Beach Toward the Fish Market

Instead of heading into the crowded center of Nouakchott, we decided on something calmer: a walk along the beach to the city’s famous fish market, only a short distance from our hotel.

On the way, we passed dozens of colourful fishing boats, both pulled up on the sand and dancing in the water. We watched as groups of fishermen worked together with impressive strength and coordination to push their heavy boats through the powerful surf. The Atlantic waves are strong here, and getting the boats out takes real skill — fascinating to watch.

Colorful, weathered boat with vibrant painted patterns lies on a sunlit sandy beach under a clear blue sky and calm ocean

As always, we stood out as Europeans, but the reactions were friendly. The braver locals even asked for photos with us, which we happily agreed to.

Two travelers on a sunny beach pose together: a woman with sunglasses and a scarf beside a guide wearing a bright orange reflective vest, turquoise sea and blue sky in the background.

Visiting the Fish Market

The market itself takes place outdoors whenever the weather allows — today was no exception. The scene was lively, intense, and absolutely authentic. Hygiene standards are not comparable to what we know, but that’s part of the experience here.

We watched large octopuses being cleaned, something we had never seen up close before. The mix of smells, colours, and activity is overwhelming at first, but incredibly interesting. After taking in all the impressions, we slowly made our way back to the hotel.

Pile of freshly caught fish arranged in black plastic tubs on a muddy dock, workers wearing boots and scarves sorting the catch under daylight at a coastal site.

Bustling coastal market along a sandy beach under a bright blue sky, with colorful umbrellas, wooden stalls, crates and tables lining the shore.

Coffee, Backgammon — and Suddenly an EU Delegation

Back at the terrace, we enjoyed a couple of coffees, played a round of Backgammon, and relaxed — until we noticed an unusual number of police vehicles and security personnel gathering near the hotel entrance.

Man (Viator) in a beige shirt and orange mirrored sunglasses sits at a seaside table, an open backgammon set in front, with palm trees and the blue ocean behind.

Beachside table with a laptop, two iced drinks, and water bottles; a green keychain rests nearby while a vibrant playground and palm trees glow under a clear blue sky.

A bit of research clarified the situation:
A European Union delegation, including EU Commissioner Magnus Brunner, was visiting Nouakchott and spending the afternoon in our hotel.

Before the delegation departed to meet the President of Mauritania, we had the rare chance to briefly speak with the Commissioner. He asked about the rally, the route, and our impressions so far — and kindly posed for a photo with us. A completely unexpected moment, and a surprisingly warm encounter.

Magnus Brunner and Team Insanire stand together on a sunny beach with palm trees, a bright blue sky and a colorful playground behind them, smiling at the camera during a seaside stop.

White and black police SUV with POLICE ESCORTE lettering, red light bar on top, circular badge on the door, palm trees and bright blue sky in the background

Taking It Easy for the Rest of the Day

Later, we felt the first light side effects of the malaria medication — a bit warm, slightly nauseous — nothing dramatic, but enough to justify a short afternoon nap.

In the evening, we met up with a few other rally teams for dinner and enjoyed a relaxed meal together. Afterwards, we returned to our bungalow and called it a night.