Morning Routine in the Sand

The day began once again with our familiar desert routine: a simple breakfast, a beautiful sunrise, and the daily challenge of shaking sand out of everything. The broom has become our most valuable tool. After packing the tent and reorganising the car, we joined the other rally teams for a short group briefing.

The plan for the day was clear: leave the National Park, follow a rough coastal track, switch to a partly paved road full of potholes, and then continue on to the Mauritanian capital, Nouakchott.

Leaving the National Park

One rally vehicle still needed to be towed all the way to the capital for repairs. Once everything was ready, we set off in convoy, slowly making our way out of the dunes and toward the Atlantic coast.

Soon, we reached what is officially described as a “road” along the shoreline — in reality, it was a sand track running parallel to the beach. Actual road signs stood half-buried in the sand, pointing the way. The scenery felt surreal, beautiful, and slightly bizarre at the same time.

After crossing a small dune, we transitioned onto a paved road, though “paved” might be an exaggeration. It was riddled with enormous potholes, making the sand track feel smoother by comparison. We zigzagged around the holes for kilometres before finally reaching the main north‑south highway.

Here, we said goodbye to our desert guides, the Bedouins who had supported us through the past days in the Sahara.

A Challenging Road Toward the Capital

The main road was in better shape, but still required caution. One rally participant was unable to avoid a deep pothole in oncoming traffic and instantly suffered two blown tyres. The team changed them quickly, although a damaged rim will need more attention later.

We continued as a convoy because all teams share one customs document, and the approach to Nouakchott is controlled by several police checkpoints. We passed through three of them, each only a short distance apart. No one could quite explain why they are placed so close together, but the process was smooth thanks to the organisation team handling the paperwork.

Along the way, we drove through a number of very simple settlements — some nothing more than a cluster of huts or tents. People stood at the roadside, waving or hoping for small gifts from passing vehicles.

Between these villages, we saw goats rummaging through piles of rubbish, dromedaries grazing calmly by the roadside, and even a few donkeys watching our convoy pass. The contrasts between landscape, living conditions, and the presence of animals everywhere are striking.

Arrival in Nouakchott

Reaching the outskirts of the capital, the traffic became predictably chaotic — cars, mopeds, buses, carts, all flowing together in what somehow works, even if no one understands how.

With hazard lights on, our convoy made its way to a hotel complex north of the city, right by the beach.
And then came the ultimate luxury after four days of desert: a proper shower.

We took some time to rest, lie down for an hour, and simply enjoy being still again. The past days in the Sahara had taken their toll.

A Festival at the Beach

In the late afternoon, we walked down to the beach — and suddenly found ourselves in the middle of what felt like a huge festival. Thousands of people, beautifully dressed:

• women in colourful festive garments
• men in white and blue robes

Stalls lined the beach: sweets, snacks, small toys, popcorn, even mobile shooting stands where people used air rifles in the middle of the crowd. There were camel rides, horse rides, loud music, and a lively, almost carnival‑like atmosphere.

As the only Europeans in sight, we drew a lot of curious looks. Some locals shyly asked for photos with us, which we happily agreed to.

One man explained the reason for the celebration:
It was Eid al‑Fitr, the three‑day festival marking the end of Ramadan.
The energy was incredible — chaotic, joyful, overwhelming, and deeply fascinating.

A Quiet Dinner and a Good Night

Back at the hotel, we had dinner on the terrace overlooking the beach. The portions were enormous — certainly enough to feed more than just one person — but after the long day, it was perfect. A few other rally participants joined, and we had some chats.

Finally, we returned to our bungalow, grateful for the comfort of a real bed after nights in the desert.

Tomorrow, we’ll take things slowly.